Floating with the Swallows

On the Edge of History

From its source in Lake Puyehue, the Pilmaiquén River is majestic, overflowing with vegetation, birds, flowers, insects, and centuries-old trees that flank crystal-clear waters and, best of all, a large population of fish.

Between 1940 and 1950, one of the first hydroelectric power plants was built, fragmenting its course in a section of the same name, about eight kilometers from its source. This event represented a major milestone of modernity for Chile, and for a generation that saw in these structures the undeniable mark of progress.

Given that there are no records of opposition or resistance to its construction, it is reasonable to assume that, at that time, the interruption of the 68-kilometer course that the river takes downstream until it joins the Bueno River (or Huenulelfu) was not questioned.

Similarly, studies on the migratory impact or the decline and extinction of native and introduced fish populations resulting from the construction of the power plant are scarce. However, it is clear that an imposing physical barrier was created between Lake Puyehue and the Pilmaiquén River, irreversibly altering the natural migration of fish from the sea to the lake and vice versa.

Today, new hydroelectric projects planned at similar distances—approximately every ten kilometers—threaten to further damage the migratory cycle of native species. However, this scenario is now being debated thanks to greater environmental awareness and education among the population, which is daring to question the absolute advisability of these types of projects.

Nevertheless, when it comes to fishing, additional factors prevent the Pilmaiquén from meeting the standards of excellence for fly fishing. Among the challenges is the intense pressure from poachers, known locally as "añeros" [1] and "chinokeros" [2], who plunder the most accessible areas of the river by drifting downstream in boats with the aim of destroying everything in their path.

While efforts have been made to contain this problem, the lack of enforcement by authorities and the immense fear associated with requiring licenses or enforcing the law as an unpaid inspector complicate the situation. The encouraging aspect is the emergence of initiatives aimed at transforming the awareness of local communities. Specifically, the rise of fly fishing in the area, the consolidation of catch and release fishing, and the creation of groups, clubs, and recreational fishing committees supported by Sernatur and Subpesca stand out.

This evolution has allowed local operators such as Riñinahuel Fly Fishing, Bull Rivers, and Los Lingues Lodge, among others, to access various sections of the river, guiding enthusiasts of the sport under strict conservation guidelines. It is also essential to have guides specializing in fly fishing: unlike traditional methods, the Pilmaiquén presents a technical course, tangled with vegetation, with challenging depths and currents that demand skill from the angler.

Ngen Mapu Kintuante: Spirit of the Pilmaiquén

Although poachers have inflicted profound damage on the watershed, the river's protective spirit seems to manifest itself in harmony with its natural beauty, making the Pilmaiquén a blessing for those who travel its waters.

Sometimes, the muddy depths of the upper section harbor large golden brown trout, as well as native perch and silvery pejerreyes. The abundant wildlife of Lake Puyehue likely uses this section of the river as a backyard where they can hunt and roam freely.

Historically, the Pilmaiquén River has served as a veritable highway for Chinook salmon migrating upstream from the sea, overcoming the obstacles of the initial stretch in the Bueno River. Once in the Pilmaiquén, these fish would move directly towards Lake Puyehue, from where they would embark on an unhindered journey to the Gol Gol River to spawn. Due to the hydroelectric plant's closure, the Chinook salmon became confined to the lake, adapting their migratory cycle between it and its tributaries, resulting in robust specimens that are extremely difficult to catch.

On the other hand, the salmon's migration back to the sea is cut short by the dam, leaving them vulnerable to poachers, as their spawning grounds are exposed in areas easily accessible for the use of lures and other multi-hook rigs.

Despite these threats, recreational fishing for trout and Chinook salmon is practiced sustainably by accessing sections of the river that are otherwise difficult to reach. This allows for peaceful fishing while floating through areas of high geomorphological appeal, ideal for fly casting.

Being within the Kintuante territory, we feel protected from adversity, ready to face the challenges ahead. Experience intense battles with vigorous brown trout rising from muddy bottoms choked with branches. Simultaneously, rainbow trout emerge from the banks to attack our flies in a vibrant fight, where headshakes and leaps set the tone for the expedition.

The river's geomorphological structure is extremely interesting for fly presentation, dynamically combining currents, pools, and vegetation. The shallows, ideal for floating lines and delicate dry flies, encourage a change in strategy—switching from long leaders to tandem rigs—to tempt hungry and aggressive trout.

This river configuration can present a challenge for those unaccustomed to floating or navigating narrow, canyon-like rivers. Anglers used to long casts must adapt to shorter, more precise, and faster casts. In short, the expedition is a true learning experience: the wind, the rapids, the tangled pools, and the boat itself demand skill to position the fly in the exact spot.

The scenic beauty of the Kintuante region pleasantly accompanies the entire journey. This is especially noticeable in the upper reaches of the river, where the canyons and submerged forests evoke the atmosphere of the Maullín River, before leading to the encounter with another fluvial beauty: the Chirre River.

The route is conventionally divided into four sections according to their duration and characteristics:

• First section (From the source to the Pilmaiquén hydroelectric plant): Calm waters, abundant aquatic vegetation and patagua trees on the banks, with muddy bottoms and high insect activity. It is a short section that can be completed in half a day.

• Second section: Located downstream, it stands out for its great scenic beauty and faster currents. Its approximate duration is one or two full days.

• Third section (From the Trafún area to the Pan-American Highway 5): A wider course that meanders between agricultural and livestock farms, characterized by calm waters and rapids that brush against imposing cliffs. It requires half a day or a full day of slow floating.

• Fourth section (From Highway 5 to Puerto Trumao): The final segment of tranquil waters. The river widens and deepens, inviting a full-day journey that culminates with a brief foray into the Bueno River to Puerto Trumao.

For now, we remain convinced that neither hydroelectric plants—present or future—nor poaching will be able to overshadow the essence of this marvelous river, blessed by Ngen Mapu Kintuante. The Pilmaiquén River is a natural work of art that, despite constant human pressure, manages to survive against all odds.

[1] A term used by the Quelentaro brothers to describe long periods of time in the Chilean countryside; in this case, used to refer to poachers who operate year-round. (Quelentaro, a Chilean music duo belonging to the folk and nueva canción movements).

[2] Ibid., applied to the illegal harvesting of Chinook salmon.

Author:

Pedro Muñoz Fritz

History and Geography Teacher

Master of Social Sciences

Owner and Fishing Guide of Riñinahuel SPA

Guide accredited by Sernatur and Chilevalora

Member of the Adventure Travel Trade Association (ATTA)